Care Guide Reference

Tortoises & Terrapins

Tortoises

Biology

Tortoises come from warm habitats from Mediterranean and steppe climates, through deserts and prairies and into the tropical rain forests. Most people associate tortoises with dryer habitats but some species come from quite humid environs. Their diet is mainly plant material but almost all will take food of animal origins on occasion. Most of the animals offered, as pets will be captive bred and are usually sold as juveniles.

Housing

Tortoises are best housed in as large a cage as possible. As this will take into account their rapid rate of growth. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. It may be necessary to provide a local hot spot near 35ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 25ºC. The hot spot should only operate during the day and the heat source should be screened, perhaps by the lid ventilation, to protect anything from burning. White and UV light may both be needed and should be present for a similar period; about fourteen hours per day in summer dropping to ten in winter. Much of the success achieved in keeping tortoises will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. Most tortoises require lowish humidity and cannot stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light misting with a hand sprayer will provide any humidity required.

Husbandry

Tortoises may be kept singly or in groups. Of course the more tortoises kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. As a minimum, a three-foot cage should be used to house a juvenile. Larger gages are needed as the animal grows especially for the larger species. Mature males tend to fight and if more than one is present in the cage and there should be plenty of retreats and visual screens. To handle a tortoise, the whole animal should be gently grasped and held in the hands. One hand beneath, supporting and the other grasping the animal's shell, controlling it. These animals just about tolerate being handle.

In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Five to six weeks would be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely cleaned. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on keeping reptiles in general and tortoises in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Leafy vegetables like cabbage form the staple diet in captivity. Other green vegetables to try might include spinach, kale and broccoli. To bulk out the food grated root vegetables are often used and these could include items like carrot and swede. A lesser proportion of the diet, say 25%, could be made up with fruit and salad items. These, whilst relished, probably cost more than they are worth and are a bit short on the coarse fiber that is essential. Any diet needs to be supplemented with vitamins and minerals. Dusting the food with Reptavite two or three times per week would normally be sufficient. If an individual animal is showing signs of bone or shell disease, such as softness or distortion, a more potent supplement is advised. For such short-term treatment, Repton is the preferred supplement but do not use it continuously over a long period. Most tortoises will require a bulk source of calcium and will accept such items as baked egg shells and cuttlefish bone. Occasionally some individuals will eat food of animal origin and such things as dog and cat food have been taken. One or two small meals per month would seem to do no harm but neither does omitting this type of food all together. Food is only eaten if the tortoise is warm enough and not distracted with other activities. Feed the tortoises every day with as much fresh food as it will eat. It is not usually possible to overfeed a tortoise on fresh leafy food. If more concentrated food is offered, such as commercial diets, bulky carbohydrate rich items or dog or cat food, controlled amounts should be offered. A small water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. The tortoises may take an occasional drink from this but most of the moisture is obtained directly from the food. Some individuals may appreciate an occasional bath in a large shallow dish.

Reproduction

Male tortoises have a more concave plastron or lower shell, while in the females it is almost flat. The male's tail is slightly longer and the vent opens near the middle rather than at the base, which is the case in females. A period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to hatch. To grow to adult in captivity may take as short a time as four or five years but in the wild, six to ten years may elapse. A cooler winter period will be needed to condition the tortoises for breeding in the following season. The tortoises available as pets are usually captive bred. In their native habitats they are still relatively common but European regulations prevent them from being imported from the wild.

Health & Disease

Tortoises live for many years in the wild but seem to live even longer in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. An environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. The most often encountered disease will be a metabolic bone disorder caused by insufficient vitamin D3 or calcium. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet tortoises do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.

Terrapins

Biology

The freshwater terrapins discussed in this leaflet belong to the family Emydidae. They are within a group of shelled reptiles the collectively called Chelonians. It includes the land tortoises, the semi aquatic box turtles and the marine turtles. Terrapins live in most habitats with access to fresh water that have a warm temperate to tropical climate. They are found on all continents except Antarctica. Quite a few are regularly available as pets each year, although supply is seasonal. Most are available as hatchling and other conveniently sized, small specimens. They will, however, grow quite quickly, often to substantial animals that will require appropriate accommodation and facilities. The species most often encountered are the N. American Cooters and Sliders, Trachemys and Pseudemys spp., Painted Terrapins, Chrysemys picta. From Eurasian comes the Pond Tortoise, Emys orbicularis and other terrapins that are Mauremys spp.

A commitment to the extra responsibilities a growing terrapin will involve must be appreciated when starting to keep these fascinating reptiles.

Housing

The most suitable containers for these animals are aquaria. Set up with half land and half water, these tanks make admirable quarters. As the animals housed may become quite large, it is best that the aquaria are as large as possible. Even then, some will out grow all but the biggest tanks and will require some other purpose built accommodation. During the summer, some garden ponds, especially those that get a good deal of sun are much appreciated. Care must be taken to ensure the temporarily paroled animal cannot escape into the wild. The water in the aquarium may be filtered in some way and the movement necessary to do this, used to aerate it at the same time. To set up the tank, add the substrate to form a base and into this anchor the plants. Any other items of decor can then be positioned. Finally, fill the aquarium with water. Ordinary tap water is suitable but may be improved by adding a propriety conditioner. The filter should be installed and run for about a day to settle the environment. (If an under gravel filter is used, it must of course, be installed before the substrate.) The substrate has two functions. One is purely decorative and the other, functional. Where decor is concerned, much is dictated by personal taste but a few points are worth considering. Choose the colours to blend into a pleasing background that contrasts well with the animals. Either a very dark or very light colour will probably make the best contrast. A terraced effect built behind retaining walls gives the impression of depth and allows both the animals and plants access to different levels. The functional role of the substrate will centre on its ability to trap and hold particulate material and how much microbial life it can support. Chemically, it is better if it is inert. The best substances to choose are the fairly coarse, lime free sands and gravels used for aquariums. Alternatively, the artificial medium, Hortag is also recommended. Plants again, serve in both decorative and functional roles. They are better planted towards the rear of the tank and choose a species like Elodea, Scindapus and Tradascantia that are tough and will provide good oxygenation. Some terrapins are active climbers so a secure, escape-proof lid is essential. If some of the lid is made from a non-corroding metal mesh, this will allow for ventilation. It may also be possible to direct the light into the cage through this mesh. If the light levels are too low, however, the lighting should be installed to the underside of the cage lid. This may require the expertise of an electrician, as mains equipment and water certainly do not mix! It is essential all electrical equipment is installed correctly and adequate protection made against electrocution.

Husbandry

Terrapins cannot really be handled. If it is necessary to move them from one aquarium to another, a suitably sized net should be used. Return the terrapin to water as quickly as possible and avoid escape by capping the net with a free hand. Larger animals can be quickly grasped with both hands and gently lifted from one place to another. Try not to touch the animal for any longer than is necessary. As far as cleaning out is concerned, the nature of the recommended set up only allows for minor interference. Every week between half and two thirds of the water can be removed and replaced with fresh tap water. Allow the new water to stand in a separate contained for a day to let some of the chlorine escape and for the temperature to equilibrate. The only other major task is to trim the plants as they grow and fill the tank. If they are not thriving, this is a good indication that something is wrong and needs to be corrected. The most common reason for plants to fail is insufficient light. Most terrapins appreciate quite a warm environment, so additional heating is required. The easiest way to heat the enclosure is to immerse an aquarium type heater-thermostat into the aquatic portion. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for precise fitting details. Set the thermostat at 27°C and check the water temperature is controlled at the set temperature with an accurate thermometer. It may be a good idea to direct any circulating water over the heater-thermostat to ensure adequate mixing. To augment the background heat a Basking Spotlamp could be used to provide a local hot spot. Make sure the beam of light and heat is directed onto a solid basking area where the terrapin can climb to heat up and drop back into the water to cool off.

With this basking behaviour the animal can maintain its preferred body temperature. To do this, however, the water must be cooler and the basking spot warmer than the value the animal prefers. Some experimentation may be called for.

Food & Feeding

Terrapins usually recognise food by smell and movement. Like many animals they will snap at moving objects in the hope that they might be a meal. If the morsel tastes OK and is of a size that can be swallowed, it is eaten. The majority of terrapins eat both animal and vegetable foods. Whilst still juvenile, animal foods certainly predominate but the best diet for captive terrapins are the pelleted foods especially prepared for them. Pelleted fish foods are similar and can also be offered. Older references recommend feeding whole animals and pieces of meat or fish. Because of the mess these diets make, the beginner best avoids them. Once tame, terrapins will feed if moved to and offered food in another container apart from their main enclosure. This reduces the amount of work involved in their maintenance. A plastic washing up bowl, reserved exclusively for the purpose, is ideal. Any bits of uneaten food can then be discarded and will not be left to decompose and foul the main enclosure. Feed the terrapins in water at the same temperature as the water from which they have been taken.

Reproduction

It may be possible to breed terrapins in captivity. Adult pairs will, of course, be required. To tell the sex of a terrapin it is usually necessary to wait until the individual is mature. The details of sexing and breeding will be found in the many excellent publications available on keeping terrapins. A 'Herpetological club or society could be contacted as another way to learn more and meet other people interested in terrapins. The Internet is also a good source of information.

Health & Disease

Pet terrapins do not suffer from many problems. Occasional fungal infections of the shell may show and can usually be dealt with preparations suitable for fish. The treatments and advice are available from aquarists and pet stores. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Despite uninformed media speculation, pet terrapins do not pose any substantial threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed. This would include washing hands after touching anything associated with the animals.

Written by Mark amey