Care Guide Reference

3 Banded/9Banded/Scremi Armadillos
Tolypeutes matacus/Dasypus novemcinctus/Chaetophractus villosus
South America

Speaking as a keeper of three species of armadillo, namely 3 banded, 9 banded and scremi, to be quite honest, when l say that they are in the main, one of the easiest species l have yet maintained this isn’t a falsehood.

Common sense should prevail any keeper looking to maintain the husbandry on the armadillo’s species. If l had to provide a ‘golden tip’ as such it would be as simple as this:

"Keep your species clean and free of external parasites, keep out of harms way and their own stupidity, and above all ensure that they are neither subjected to chills or drafts".

Handling & Temperament

I have found that all three of the species are very easy to handle, although the 9 banded and the 3 banded are more accepting, whilst the Scremi do not argue with it, if your hands go too near their face then they live up to their name - they scream! Overall the temperament is fine on all the species l maintain.

Housing

It is easy to say the bigger the better, and this is a good way forwards - however whilst being bigger is better, keep and eye on the height. All the armadillos are excellent climbers, but the problem is that when they reach the top of their destination, their reversal techniques are really quite poor. So I would say that the maximum height you should be looking to acquire is no more than 40", and ensure that your top has an overhang, there fore preventing the ‘dillos’ from escaping.

But as for length, about 8 feet in length, 40" as said for height and about 48" wide is a pretty good starting point. In addition to them being avid climbers, they are also exceptional diggers, so it should be noted that a concrete floor is required.

Substrates

Well l use shredded paper, l find that this doesn’t slip in-between their bands like l found the hay did and caused them annoyance. But l have heard of other keepers using a mixture of shredded paper and shavings. Although they use a corner to mess in, they are an extremely messy animal.

Interior stimuli

Working off the premise that they like to dig, you might like to go for a slightly deeper digging element, old branches, and logs will do them no harm. Their claws are powerful so they can overturn things like rocks etc. Might be an ideal opportunity for the inclusion of mealworms and the such like if they have to dig them out.

Special Needs

Heating: I keep mine at roughly 22-24 degrees, l have found that you can go hotter, and of course they will take natural drops of temperature in the wild, if you wish to have them breed, then go for the hotter temperature.

Lighting: I use an ultra-violet lighting on a timer, which l rotates to change for seasonal changing’s.

Arrival Diet

Well, l have found that it is best to find out what they were eating prior to them coming to me, and have a contingency diet of wet cat feed and culture feeds awaiting them.

Dietary Requirements

There are many differing viewpoints to feeding ‘dillos’ but this is my diet, although if you were to ask the ‘dillos’ what they would like, it would be ‘wet cat feed and mealworms’ every day.

First off: same diet all species:

Dry Cat biscuits

Wet Cat feed - good quality - not a rubbish brand.

Culture feed dish: mealworms, locusts, morios, earthworm’s etc

Chopped fruit and vegetables

Banana and a raw egg once a week

Good quality vitamin supplement once a week

We have also tried this type of diet:

First off: same diet all species

Insectivore diet: mealworms, earthworms, etc

Mince from either rabbit or turkey

Mouse or rat pinks upward to pups and fluffs, as well as day old chicks,

Chopped fruit and vegetables

Overall comment: genuinely a really pleasing species to keep.