Care Guide Reference

Mongolian Gerbils
Meriones unguiculatus
Mongolia

Contents

Introduction

Very short history

Housing

Substrates

Feeding

Handling

Coat Coloration’s

Conclusion

Introduction

I guess l have been breeding Mongolian Gerbils for roughly twelve years now, l started as pet owner and gradually as time lapsed built it up into a large breeding stud. Of all the small animals l have had the pleasure to work with, maintain and keep, l think in reality only Mongolian Gerbils and their related species and Shaw’s’ Jirds and their related species have l genuinely had the most joy.

Ideally this species does in my opinion make for an ideal family pet, there are those who would argue this point. I feel pretty sure that rat, mouse and hamster breeders, keepers and pet owners might say differently. And in some cases l might have to agree with the fact that some of these other animals mentioned all have worthy points in making them a nice family pet.

But l reiterate the point l made about this being in my opinion an ideal family pet.

Easy to keep and to maintain, easy by far to feed, to house and if kept correctly can remain a member of the domestic family unit for quite a few years.

It is a very easy species to be kept by a youngster, and l have said in the past to both retailers and prospective keepers that of the small animals available in today’s market there are only a few species that can be easily maintained in both expenditure and actual handling and one of these species is the Mongolian Gerbil.

Many animals that we as keepers have the privilege of keeping can appease our sense of entertainment with their antics, however in so far as the small scaled animal, this species can easily top the lot. Of course those reading will see that l am perhaps slightly biased in my opinion, but l will again emphasise that this is my opinion.

Here we have an animal that does not bite first and ask questions later, the comparison animal to this is the found amongst the hamster species - notably amongst the best of short term interrogators of parts of ones anatomy - specialising in fingertips are the Syrians or Golden and also the respected Russian.

The latter species enjoys the benefits of night time exploration, and oddly enough chooses this time to perform its acrobatics in a rickety wheel usually attached to its cage - l hear wise owners with young children in the house, remove the wheel from its perch before bedtime, stating that it will disturb their Child’s’ sleep - which in itself is fairly ironic.

When you consider that this ‘charming’ species was actually purchased for the child in the first place and the latter is more than likely zonked out in the world of the nod, whereas the parents are the ones who usually degenerate from the pets night time activities.

With the Mongolian Gerbil, we have an animal that bears no evil urine smell, such as can be found with both rats and mice.

No, with the Mongolian Gerbil, we have a species that is like so many - animated, but is fascinating in some of its burrowing techniques, that is friendly beyond measure, that will become quite close to its owner, but its main feature is as previously mentioned - it is by far very easy to maintain and to keep very content.

Very short history

Mongolian Gerbils were first discovered in the early 1800’s but it was not until the mid 1930’s that this species actually came to live in the captivity. They were a species that was used in laboratories for medical research. In the mid 1960’s they were introduced to the Americans as pets, slightly later the Europeans were awarded them as pets

Their natural habitat region is that of the Semi-desert areas of North Eastern China and of course Mongolia.  

Housing

There is a vast and considerable range of habitats, enclosures and caging and glass ware that is suitable for this species.

Personally if you are a first time pet owner then l would course you down the pathway of glass ware, perhaps l am slightly antiquated in mentioning this product type, however it is an enclosure that l have always favoured most strongly.

The Mongolian Gerbil is an foraging and burrowing species, and genuinely appreciates a good depth of substrate to rummage in.

Most hamster cages for sale are built onto a low bearing wall of what is only a plastic litter tray in a surround wire frame, not ideal for digging competitions which are held on a daily basis by the gerbils.

Glass ware may be heavier, than plastic counterparts, but does scratch as easily, can be cracked or smashed if dropped , but please note the use of the latter phrase - dropped! Is by far very easily cleaned and disinfected, can be made to look ‘prettier’ if a back drop is used and comes in an array of sizes.

Second hand glass ware is just as easily purchased as brand new and once cleaned up can look as new again, where as caging and plastic ware not only looks second-hand but actually looks down right diabolical in appearance.

Glass ware can accommodate any depth of substrate that you choose to place in without it spilling out of the sides, unless you place in a depth which is just inches from the top!

But above all, it allows a 100% access in terms of easier viewing, it also serves the purpose of no unwanted fingers poking through bars, and as said it basically just looks more of an attractive setting inside a lounge room or bedroom in comparison to a rubbish spilling cage or a scratch ridden plastic tank.

First hand or second hand, glassware when keeping very small numbers of gerbils is by far the most economic way forwards for the housing of this species.

As to a rough guideline on sizes per housing per breeders or occupants.

Working with glassware:

The simple 18" glass tank is basically ideal as minimal housing for a pair [2 animals], varying ranges up from that which include 24", 30", 36" or a very elaborate 48", is ideal for a pair or indeed will easily house, trios, quads and quintets.

The bigger the tank is the deeper you can go with your substrate level.

Substrates

There are a few types of actual substrate that you could use. I have heard of some very strange affairs to do with peat, but through personal experience regard this as a non goer when it comes to the likes of Mongolian Gerbils.

The best substrate to use, and with this term l am referring to a ground covering material as opposed to a nesting material, is in my belief and years of usage, shavings. You can also use straw and a substrate as the gerbils will in fact happily munch this down to a fine mulch over a period of time, pending of course on the size of the glass ware.

Nesting materials, are also in plentiful supply, but instead of displaying to the reader an array of shop bought products, there are in my eyes two really decent nesting materials, the term ‘nesting materials’ refers to a material which your animals will use as their bed and blanket if you wish.

If you are using shavings as your substrate then ideally use a combination of straws and hay as the nesting materials.

If you do use a shop to purchase your straw, do not purchase the pre-chopped straw, go for straw and hay in its raw format, long straight strands, uncut and more natural. Your gerbils will do the rest for you in so far as cutting it down to a determined size which is suitable for their specific nest. If you allow them to do this ‘activity’ themselves, it makes for more entertainment for them and for you.

Far too many people recommend the purchase of pre-cut hays and straws. Why? Gerbils are rodents and they all love to gnaw.

Ideally, if you live in the countryside, you might find it cheaper to purchase this material direct from the farmstead, where in fact if you do some careful scouting and hunting out, you might be lucky enough to locate some real little treasures.

Even if you only own a pair of gerbils or indeed if you run several breeding units, you can usually pick up a small bale of material at a pretty reasonable cost.

Hay can range in small bale from as little as £1 per bale to as much as £5 per bale, pending the quality of it.

Buying hay, ensure that you get a bale that best displays the best part of the year that you are in. For example if the bale looks, brown, dusty and smells pungent then it would be a good guess to say that it is well above a year old. But if it smells fresh, looks fresh and green, then chances are it will the years seasonal offering.

Hay will assist in the cleaning of your gerbils teeth and also aids digestion.

Now straws can be really exciting, for there are quite a few that each carry different properties and also aid your animals health and their coat lustre.

Barley, oat and wheat are all excellent straws for gerbils. Oat is a very light weight straw and is easily chewed down, superb for summer use, but not good as winter protection.

Barley and wheat are also superb for chewing and do act as really good winter nesting. Although wheat is not that good as an actual absorbent material and does not allay smells that well. A combination of the three would be superb, but should you only own a pair hardly economical - at best l would suggest barley as the ideal all year nesting material.

Again when buying straw the same applies in viewing a good purchase go for the fresher bale, and you should find yourself looking anywhere between 50p - £3 per small bale.

Other very useful straws but much harder to locate for sale, are the likes of rape straw, flax, linseed and hemp. I have tried maize straw and sunflower but have found these to be of no useful benefit what so ever. But I have used nettle straw on more than one occasion and if you have the time and the patience for collection, this is an ideal nester for gerbils and a superb winter foliage for rabbits.

Nettle straw is simply a method of collecting nettles throughout the year and hanging in bunches from a high ceiling [outside] and allowing to dry. After a period of some six months they are not only dry but also sting free.

I am fairly biased in so far as nesting materials, preferring to use natural materials. There are other more commercially used materials available from pet stores such as shredded tissues, paper and dish cloth. I have used all in the past and have found none of them to be particularly beneficial, and the only thing that they have proved to me, is that are expensive, and are sure to burn a hole in the pocket.

But l must point out that l hold many pairs of Mongolian Gerbils, for the average pet owner then perhaps going for the easier format of pet shop purchase, may be the most cost effective method.

For pet gerbils, add stimulation to the environment, toilet tubes are free, and are easily chewed up, apple or pear branches, washed and left to dry naturally are ideal for gnawing on and can make for interesting climbing frames for your pets. there is much debate over the use of wheels, but l have always preferred to allow for climbing fames and a suitable substrate depth to allow burrowing.

Feeding

For many years l used to purchase prepared commercial mixes available for either hamsters and gerbils. However for the last ten years l have opted to mix up my own special feeds, preferring to use a winter mix and a summer mix.

However l think that with this issue it is best for all new owners and keepers to commence their keeping with prepared commercial mixes then experience will lead them to the successful mix. The secret is to always ensure that you provide a well balanced diet.

As said l prefer to mix up my own feeds, and listed below are ingredients that appear in some percentage in both the seasonal mixes. The summer mix being the lightest and the easiest to actually make up.

Spring, Summer & Autumn

Basic Rabbit Mixture

Medium Striped Sunflower Seeds

Mixed Corn

Mixed Canary Mix

Winter

Basic Rabbit Mixture

Flaked Maize

Mixed Corn

Rolled Oats

Mixed Cat Biscuit and alternating months puppy kibble

Pumpkin Seeds

Medium Striped Sunflower Seeds

Bound together with Soya oil

Mongolian Gerbils are very easily fed and will eat from a wide range of feeds, so as said experience with your animals will teach you what they will eat and what they will not.

Fruit and vegetables will also be taken, however it must be pointed out that it should be fed to animals above the 16 week age bracket and also fed in minimally to begin with so as not to induce scours.

Fresh feeds or green feeds provide an array of valuable source of vitamins

Always thinly sliced pieces.

Carrot, Kale, Broccoli, Cabbage, Spinach [low in oscalic acid], Swede, Turnip, [not potato], Parsley, Cauliflower, Brussel Sprouts, Chicory. Apple thinly sliced will also be taken.

If you know your weeds then these can also provide valuable feeding proteins;

Wash all weeds carefully and thoroughly:

Dandelion, Ribwort Plantain, Chickweed, Cows Parsley, Shepherds Purse, Groundsel, both young red and white dead nettle, young hog weed,

Treats:

Millet Sprays, Monkey Nuts, Mealworms

Water Bottles and Bowls: if you decide to use a water bottle [some people use bowls - which is really very nasty and antiquated] then go for the gravity feeder bottles. Feeding bowls are also quite useless with gerbils as they will inevitably cover the bowl with their bedding, and l had always found that when using glass for my original stock was to place it direct into the actual substrate, it encourages natural foraging behaviour.

Handling

Mongolian Gerbils are by far one of the easiest species to actually work with in terms of bonding and actual handling.

When you bring your new animal home, I personally, despite what the pet store tell you, would suggest a settling in period of 24 hours.

Ensure that your animals housing, natural environment, internal stimulation, feed bottle and feed bowl should you use one are all in place.

Ensure that you have sited your animal in a quiet situation in the house, but in a position where upon all the noises of the house will prevail upon its/their hearing so that they slowly and assuredly can become acquainted with the levels.

Patience will win the day with your new pet, soft introductions work in a superior fashion. Gentle handling, cupping, allowing finger sniffing and nibbling [but not biting]. Allow your gerbil to become used to your hands in their territory.

After a relatively short period of time, your new pet/s will walk onto your hand, and gradually you will be able to hold your new pets fully in your cupped hands.